Passo dello Stelvio – The Giant of the Alps

18 November 2024 Redazione Experience, Mountain Roads, News

Words by Andrea Albertazzi / Photos by Curves Hunter

The majestic mountain range of the Alps mainly rides the northernmost portion of Italy, close to the borders with Austria and Switzerland, giving shape to one of the most fascinating places on the entire planet. Thin and tortuous tongues of asphalt climb the rocky walls, scaling for hundreds of meters and entering the most total embrace of mother nature, where time is still marked by the alternation of the seasons, which also dictate the opening and closing of the highest passes, submerged by an indefinite blanket of snow during the harsh winters. As the months pass and spring arrives, the colors return to paint a canvas that increasingly takes on the shapes and contours of a painting depicting the deepest sense of inner fulfillment.

Although it may be unfair to establish what the reference point of this enchanting scenery is, there is a road that more than any other represents the very quintessence of the Alpine landscape, a timid footprint that man has placed close to the Alps, only to join two dots on the map that would otherwise be separated by several hours of travel. But in the best Alpine tradition it is not a simple connection nor does it itself represent an undisputed destination for lovers of outdoor sports for tourists who come here from all over the world, finally realizing how incredibly vast and scenic this magnificent place is. You cannot be satisfied with a beautiful photograph, because even if it offers the possibility of immortalizing even the most beautiful views of the place, it is only by letting your pupils be captivated by the smallest detail that you find a connection with the mountain.

You have to observe those immense meadows interrupted only by a narrow strip of asphalt that goes up and then down again, counting up to 48 perfect hairpin bends in the space of just a few dozen kilometers, mostly supported by gigantic columns of concrete and stone. There are some huts, some farmhouses and even a handful of accommodation facilities where you can refresh yourself, or rest in preparation for an excursion at the first light of dawn, but the imprint of man is respectful and never invasive, so much so that losing yourself in the endless silence of the western or eastern valley is a must, before setting off again and heading towards the summit.

It also holds the record for the highest asphalted pass in Italy, the second in all of Europe, connecting the Lombardy region to that of Trentino Alto Adige, but numbers or statistics and honors are lost when at the foot of the mountain you turn your gaze upwards, almost struggling to distinguish the most distant peak and trying to follow with your eyes that coming and going that climbs tirelessly and in an almost grotesque way, as if the road itself had sprung from the surreal imagination of a child. Perhaps this is one of the many aspects that make this place magical and capable of establishing a relationship with our subconscious, making contrasting sensations coexist such as restlessness and relaxation of the senses, already satisfied with what has been granted, even before actually starting the climb.

The mountain, now awakened from its winter hibernation, regains the bright colors of summer, opening up to any outdoor activity you can think of, but above all creating games of light that illuminate a small corner on the roof of the world marked by the passing of the centuries. The air is thin and as the kilometers pass you realize how much time would be needed to absorb all the beauty that this place is able to offer. This is a way of bringing your nose closer to the Stelvio Pass, the Alpine giant that has been on the map for almost two centuries and that was paved almost a hundred years ago. Its particular shape allows it to constantly be on the podium in every list of the most beautiful roads in the world, enhancing the scenic aspect and the drama of its curves.

Here, it is never a question of power or speed, because the topographical conformation of the territory requires a cautious and reasonable approach, allowing you to appreciate the constant metamorphosis that accompanies and changes the scenery beyond the sides of the road. Then there is that leap into the void, almost like leaning with all the weight of your body into the dark eye of a bottomless pit. Your knees shake and your back begins to tingle, while your gaze returns to the road, noticing how for once the driving experience is literally built around that single lane that goes up from Trafoi and down towards Bormio, or vice versa.

The fact that it represents a true motoring Mecca and not only has a downside, namely the possibility of having to share this place with traffic that is foreign to your ideal representation of a pure driving day. This is why, taking advantage of the seasonal opening months, our advice is to elevate the experience to the first or last light of day, where the shadows are longer and the particular color contrasts created by the weak rays of the sun that collide on the rocks make the landscape even more suggestive. And then the noises, or rather the lack of. A dull silence that invades the eardrums and is disturbed only by the ticking of the exhaust of our car, a trusted companion on an adventure that is now indelibly imprinted in our soul as road explorers.